Tip
or surcharge?
I understand why some restaurants
add a 15% tip to bills of fare for large groups, but that doesn’t mean
I like it.
Individuals can hide in
a group and can be cheap with the tip anonymously. The waiter’s disdain
is spread over everyone rather than focused on the cheapskate.
An easy solution is to issue
separate checks to individuals within the group. Experiments show that
resulting tips are higher.
I am not one of those who
argues that tipping should be abolished and service workers’ pay be increased
to make up for the loss. When reward is the same for a doing a lousy job
as for doing a good one, there is less incentive to do a good job, to be
superior rather than merely adequate.
I first encountered mandatory
tipping a decade ago in New York. I left the tip on the table in cash,
took the bill to the cashier, and insisted he charge my card only with
the pre-tip total, that I’d left the tip on the table.
It did not help that the
cashier understood less English than the average foreign tourist. It took
a prolonged huddle of cashier, waiter, and one or two others——translators
perhaps——but I prevailed. I never ate there again.
This week, I had to scratch
one of my favorite Puerto Rican restaurants off my list. Its computer now
adds a precise 15% to the subtotal.
The waiter was apologetic
when my companion and I told her we’d like to speak to the manager.
I explained to the manager
and to our waiter that a mandatory tip is not a tip but a surcharge. It
is an insult to the customer and to the waiter. It punishes superior waiters
who might receive a higher tip and rewards lazy ones who do nothing to
earn even the 15%.
The manager said the owner
had instituted the new policy.
We asked him to tell the
owner that at least two regular customers, who reward superior service
with tips closer to 20%, are insulted by his new policy and will not be
back until it is changed.
A couple of evenings later,
I tried a small restaurant down the street from the one I’d abandoned.
The food was excellent and the service, superb. A note on the menu warned
that a 15% tip would be added to bills for groups of three or more.
It was the kind of place
in which the owner wanders among the tables, greets customers, and makes
small talk with those who seem open to it.
I mentioned that three was
the smallest group size subject to a mandatory tip I’d ever noticed. That
launched a discussion of tipping in general.
I’d read years ago that
groups of women leave the smallest tips. The owner says that’s changed,
that the growing number of professional women tip as well as men. She said
the worst tippers are Canadians.
I suggested separate checks
to keep the percentage up where it should be.
She said that tourists from
many countries do not tip when they travel, singly or in groups, because
they either come from places where tipping is not customary, or they are
accustomed to having the tip included in the bill.
She said that some people
don’t look closely at the tab and tip on top of the billed 15%.
I told the owner I though
mandatory tipping reduced a waiter’s incentive.
Her staff is small enough
that she doesn’t see that as a problem. Each worker knows what each of
the others is doing. Their incentive is to make customers return frequently
as much as it is to earn a good tip.
Another of her policies,
and not an uncommon one, is to pool tips and include kitchen staff in the
division. She wants the chef to have a stake in how well he does his job.
I told the owner that I
often dine with my crew, and that means three. I requested that, should
we all come in for dinner, that we not be billed for the tip. She seemed
amenable to that.
If three of us do go in
and they insist on adhering to policy, we’ll ask for separate tables and
talk across the spaces between them.
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